I drove a hellcat and the first thing that popped into my head was.
It's all designed with electronic nanny douche systems that pretty much prevent you from instantly killing yourself. Now hop into any modern factory car producing at, or around that power output and it's VERY tame by comparison. Stomping on the gas results in the front of the car flying off the ground, INSTANT redline screaming, and blowing up tires half the width of some people's cars. To put this into perspective, my uncle has a 900 hp NA 74 hornet that runs low 9s on pump gas. Remember, 350hp isn't as much as you think when it's being controlled by randomized nonsense math in a car that weighs quite a lot. Some people come into this car with an expectation from past experience. Sorry if it came across ranty but it's true.
RAW POWER MOTORWORKS PC
Imagine how much damage the liberal tree hugging left wing PC douchebags will have done to the car community with emissions standards given another 50 years. But look on how he bright side, our grandkids will be looking back at ECU nannied ****boxes as the glory days compared to whatever crap they use when every car is run off of 900 lbs of batteries, or hovers or some ****. Welcome to 2017, it's all downhill from here. You will just have to get it tuned to excessive power outputs to compensate, or at least numb that delayed sense of urgency from the engine. Strip away all the fuel sipping tree hugging faggotry and emissions and electronic controls and you can have that immediate response back, but that's an unrealistic thing to ask. Anyone with the expectation that a modern car will do that will be disappointed regardless. So regardless, the car would do EXACTLY as you ****ing ordered it to do EXACTLY when you ordered it to do it EXACTLY the same way every single time. When you mashed the throttle it pulled a mechanical linkage on the carb, which pulled in fuel through a set mechanical flow rate, and air from the engines natural vacuum, with the valves opened mechanically to the SAME duration on the cam every single ****ing time. This will be most evident for people like myself who have driven, or own old muscle cars or even anything prior to this ***** computerized garbage. The computer doesn't do the exact same thing every single time in every driving situation. Sometimes it doesn't get the calculations quite right for the situation requested and the result is lacking. So essentially your requesting your car at a split second to drop everything it WAS doing, and go all out. So the car is constantly doing math, and manufacturing are ****wits and also incorporate all this nonsense about engine management for fuel sipping and tree hugging. I think the issue is a lot of people don't understand that most modern cars are computerized BULL****, and even the accelerator peddle is fly by wire calculations. I'm pressing the throttle, do as your ****ing told. Sometimes it takes off like a rocket, other times it's like asking a butler to go fetch you some power, but he asks "are you sure sir?" Before he does. Under the same conditions, same temp, same humidity, same road, same wind, same oil and water temps, same weight you can ask the car to do the same thing at various speeds and get random results. But I've never felt a car NA or turbocharged that delivered power as inconsistent as this one does. You can blame it on the turbo or any of another 90000 reasons.
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To run that much Boost\Load requires additional octane booster for now to eliminate the slight knock retard until I can install the W/M kit.Īs silly as it sounds, and as easily as people dismiss it as trivial I kinda agree with Op.
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I've tuned mine to ~30psi max Boost pressure (44psi absolute) and corrected all the Boost/Load/Torque/Throttle tables to obtain full throttle throttle closures. In some cases the ecu will modulate the throttle to reduce manifold pressure (boost) if the Load/Torque targets are obtained easily on any given day conditions. Even less than 1-deg timing retard can be felt when at WOT if you're paying attention and have data to back it up. You don't usually hear spark knock as the engine sensors function very well and pull timing very quickly to prevent any serious knock. I live in an area with widespread 93 octane (10% ethanol) and the fuel quality varies terribly even from the same station and the same pump. I've found while logging/tuning my RS that the surges you feel are mainly timing variances caused by generally poor fuel. The car targets Load and Torque together. The car isn't targeting boost, so the boost gauge is NOT the indicator of power made.
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